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About Us
Nancy and Paul Buzza bring a
personal approach to their
jewelry business. Nancy says, "I
don't so much feel like a
jeweler as a Foster Mom.
I'm only trying to find a good
home for the special pieces that
I've found." They are very
careful to buy only pieces that
they, themselves, would be proud
to wear. "We want people
to look down at their rings 20
years from now and still catch
their breath like they do the
first time they see them."
The Buzzas have a Look What I
Found shop in the
Olivia Morgan Antiques Mall
in East Cobb County. Map
We'll
be
open
Fri-Sat
from
10
to 6
and
Sunday
from
12
to
5.
We're
now
closed
Mon-Tue-Wed-Thur.
About Our
Diamonds |
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The
Old Mine Cut or Peruzzi Cut
Also Old Cushion Cut
Most
diamonds cut in this style were
from the Brazilian mines, which
were discovered in the early
1700s. When new mines were
discovered in South Africa in
1867, the mines in Brazil became
known as the old mines and the
characteristic shape and cut of
those stones as the old-mine
cut.
The basic
shape of the old-mine cut is
square with gently rounded
corners. It is much deeper than
the modern round brilliant cut,
with a higher crown, a smaller
table, and an open culet. The
old cushion cut has the same
style of faceting, but is oblong
in shape, also called the
pillow cut.
To put these
wonderful old-cut diamonds into
a historical perspective,
consider the following:
They are very
yellow compared to todays
popular whiter diamonds. I even
see quite a few gorgeous
cinnamon and chocolate colored
old-mine cut diamonds around
because, in todays market, they
are not considered worth
re-cutting to a modern round
brilliant stone. There was no
middle class anywhere in the
world and these diamonds were
competing with huge rubies,
spinels, emeralds, peridots,
amethysts, and all the other
colored gemstones for a place
with royal families and American
robber barons! They considered
a colorless gemstone boring, and
it was much easier to use white
quartz or crystal to achieve a
neutral color.
There
was no electricity, so these
diamonds were not only cut by
hand, but they were also
POLISHED without electrical
power to turn their polishing
wheels. Diamond is the hardest
material on earth, so it must
have taken years to achieve a
beautiful gemstone. Naturally,
with so much time involved in
production and a very elite
market awaiting these diamonds,
they only started with the very
best quality rough crystals.
Any sign of carbon inclusions
would cause a diamond to be
discarded. (I have my own
theory about some of the smaller
poorly-cut old mine diamonds
that show up now and then. The
apprentice cutters had to spend
years learning their craft and
these are probably some of their
first diamonds!)
These
old-mine-cut diamonds were cut
for candlelight and lamplight, (remember--no
electricity.) They
are much deeper and actually
trap the light inside the stone,
separating the white light into
all the colors of the rainbow.
Todays round brilliant cut
diamonds look best in bright
light, but the old-mine-cut
diamonds and old-European cut
diamonds are at their best in
low light. (Imagine a dimly lit
restaurant with candles on the
tables. Your diamond will look
like a headlight!).
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The Old
European Cut
 After the
electric bruting machine was
invented in 1891, the girdle of
a diamond was able to be round
instead of square. The style of
cut remained deep, with a high
crown, small table, and open
culet. These round shaped
diamonds came onto the market at
the same time as the new South
African diamonds. It didn't
take long for the DeBeers
company to buy up most of the
South African mines, establish
the diamond cutting (with
electric polishing wheels)
centers in Amsterdam and
Belgium, and to begin marketing
diamonds to the emerging middle
classes in American and Europe.
I examine these diamonds very
carefully for flaws and
inclusions. Its much harder to
find clean European cuts. When
found, they are every bit as
gorgeous as the old-mine cut
diamonds because they retain the
same depth and faceting style.
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The Modern
Round Brilliant Cut
The theory of
the shape and facet placement of
the modern round brilliant cut
diamond was discovered by
mathematical formula in 1919.
Since diamonds were still hand
cut by master cutters with many
years of experience, it took
awhile for this new-fangled idea
to catch on! We call the
diamonds cut between 1920 and
1940 transition cuts, because
they combine the old and new
styles in many, many different
ways. Many of the old cut
diamonds were also re-cut to
more modern proportions.
Sometimes the crown was lowered
and the table widened, sometimes
the top of the stone was left
alone and the bottom was re-cut
to close the culet.
Since 1940,
all round brilliant diamonds
have been cut to the same formula--in more recent years
with the help of lasers and
computers.
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...So What's
Important?
The first and
main thing to look for in any
diamond is beauty. Does it make
you catch your breath? Despite
the marketing hype, diamonds are
not an investment. They are an
emotional experience in the
search, the purchase, and the
wearing.
Because of
the age of most of our diamonds,
their original brooch, pendant or ring is long since
gone. I have my master jeweler
take the diamond out of whatever
its last home has been and he
weighs it and grades it for
clarity and color. Then I spend
whatever time it takes to find
just the right new home for it.
Each antique-cut diamond is a
unique work of art by a master
artisan. I have discovered that
one mounting might just suck all
the life out of a diamond while
another mounting will make it
sing and dance! You may assume
that most of my old-mine cut
diamonds are in high-quality new
reproduction mountings. I do
have a few that were remounted
in their current rings back in
the early 1900s, so the ring
may truly be an antique--and the
central diamond is even older! |
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